A Turn of the 19th Century Riding Habit

To start hem the front edges. Then cut slits in the neckline and insert gussets. These are squares of fabric. Fold the edges under, and topstitch in.

The shirt is hand sewn with flat felled seams.

Then fold the squares in half to cover the raw edges.

A view of the gussets from below.

For the sleeves, sew a gusset on the top edge.

Then gather the sleeve (not the gusset) and attach it to the body of the shirt.

Sew the side seam. One side of the gusset is sewn to the sleeve, forming a triangle shape in the underarm.

A close up of the gusset.

The sleeve from the wrong side. The gathers at the top of the sleeve aren't flat felled like the rest of the shirt, but rather covered with a strip of batiste, which reinforces the seam as well.

The finished shirt, except for the ruffles at the front edge. The neck edge, including the gussets, is gathered into a collar. The wrists are gathered into bands. Both the collar and cuffs close with Dorset buttons.