|The construction of this dress is very similar to that of Eowyn's Travelling Coat. I used Simplicity 9888 as a base. I made a muslin of the bodice and made it back closing. I made the outer sleeves the same way I made the coat sleeves. The only difference is the bell on the White Wool sleeves is much longer. I cut the sleeves on the cross to get the full length that I wanted. For the skirts, I extended them like the coat, just angling them out from the waist to the edge of the fabric. It's slightly trained in back, so I just made the center back measurement a little longer. The side seams are just floor length.|
To make the undersleeves, I took the top part of my sleeve from the oversleeve, narrowed it slightly and lengthened it to wrist length. The undersleeve is laced through tabs from just below the elbow to the wrist. The tabs on the pictures on the Two Towers Extended Edition DVD all appear to be sewn in seams, so I made the sleeve a two piece sleeve.
Next, I pinned the tabs where they needed to be, on the raw edge of the seam. Then I did the second part of the French seam. This enclosed the edges of the tabs into the seams.
A picture of the finished undersleeves. To sew them into the dress, I lined them up with the oversleeve and treated them as one.
The oversleeves. You can see just how long they are laid out on the fabric. Admittedly, I did end up cutting about 3" off them. Then, the sewn undersleeves. I used the same techniques sewing them that I used for my coat.
The sleeve is lined in silk jacquard throughout. I didn't want to just line the bell so the color would stay consistent from top to bottom.