A Blue Printed Cotton 1780s Gown

From The Northern Society of Costume and Textiles

The construction techniques used in the bodice are very interesting. First, the outer fabric is sewn together, with the seam allowances folded down. The first picture shows the pieces pinned together, the second shows the ridge that forms when it's sewn.

This picture shows the row of stitching. The resulting seam is very firm, and acts almost like boning down the seam. My original 1820-1840 corset also uses this technique. The seam is too thick to wrinkle.

Next, the seam allowances on the lining are folded under and the lining is whipstitched to the ridge. The first picture shows the pinned lining, the second shows it sewn in place.

The technique for the sleeves is also interesting. The bottom half of the seam is sewn in with a French seam. The first picture shows the sleeve set in, seemingly backwards. The second picture shows the second step, with the finished seam. The rest of the seam is then backstitched in from the outside.

Progress pictures, the dress before the sleeves.

More progress. This time, the dress is completed except for the ruffle. I normally like 18c dresses on the short side, but felt this one needed to be longer. With the long sleeves, the skirt looked unbalanced.

The Dress
My Costumes
18th Century

I'd like to go home!