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The standard front and back views of the jacket. The jacket is sewn almost entirely by machine, only parts of the lining are handsewn. The trim is a bias cut strip of silk. The ends are turned under and it is machine sewn very close to the edges. There are three rows of machine stitching about 1/4" away from each other between the two outer rows. It originally closed with 6 buttons, but was altered to be about 2" larger through the waist and now closes with four buttons. |
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The standard three-quarter views of the jacket. The lapels are cut as part of the front and turned back, the collar is a separate piece. The trim stops on the front approximately where the fold for the lapel stops, and starts on the wrong side at the same place. This way, there's no silk where it won't be seen. |
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On the left, a close-up of the jacket buttoned with the buttons in the original location. The bottom right button has been replaced with a very different style button. You can see the third buttonhole right at the place where the lapel folds over. This was left unused when the jacket was altered. On the right, a close-up of the join between the collar and the lapel. |
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A few close-ups of the trim. On the right, you can see the seams on the back of the jacket. Though they do fade into the dark wool, they form the narrow center back section seen on most Victorian clothing. |
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Close-ups of the cuffs. The picture on the left shows that the trim was sewn before the sleeve was sewn since the trim doesn't match up. I find this type of imperfection rather comforting when it comes to making reproductions :) |
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Now the jacket buttoned in its altered state. The new buttons don't match the old and the old were left in place, making it rather obvious that the jacket had been altered. Only the top button from the row originals was removed. |
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A close-up of the armscye, and the buttons once again. The gathering starts about halfway up the front of the armscye and goes around all of the back. It's rather thick, so the gathering is somewhat loose. |
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On the left, a detail of the opened lapel. The front of the jacket is a rather square shape. You can see the fold mark from the lapel and where the trim stops. On the right, a detail of the wrong side of the collar. Though the color is off in this picture, it clearly shows the zig-zag stitching that attaches the collar to interfacing. This was done before the collar was sewn to the front piece-the stitches don't show up on the front. |
The Inside
Antique Clothing
The Edwardian Era
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